I've been working for a few days to restore an Amiga 3000 from 1990 which was owned by an art professor from Philadelphia.
Part 1: https://mstdn.io/@codewiz/113561527808236797
Part 2: https://mstdn.io/@codewiz/113562074864354876
TL;DR: The Varta battery leaked concentrated potassium hydroxide over the vital region between the three chips which define the Amiga architecture: Denise (video), Paula (audio) and Agnus (blitter, copper and DMA).
Extracting Denise and Paula reveals some corrosion on the pins.
Fat Agnus appears to have been spared, but I don't have a proper PLCC extractor tool and I'm not going to risk prying it out with kludgy methods.
Against best advice, I took the risk to power up the board in its present state.
The power LED flashing 6 times means that the Kickstart's diag routines failed somewhere, and a red screen signals a ROM checksum failure:
https://www.amigalove.com/viewtopic.php?t=324
This is actually great news: the 68030 was able to execute some ROM code and even write into some of Denise's registers.
The checksum error could also be caused by a fault on either the data bus or the address bus.
Today I received the first batch of components for my A3000 board. Just a few DIP sockets, common logic IC, diods and capacitors.
I couldn't find 48-pin DIP sockets for Denise and Paula, so instead I bought 24-pin sockets to be used in pairs.
I scrubbed most of the green goo with a combination of sand paper and fiberglass pen.
I frequently cleared the dust from the PCB with an ESD-safe brush, distilled water and isopropyl alcohol.
I should probably also wash the entire board with soap water, but I'm not sure which soap is safe for PCBs, and which components need protection.
And this is what was underneath all the corroded metal oxide.
Most of the copper directly under the battery has been completely corroded, exposing a dark fiberglass layer.
This was actually lucky: that big ground plane neutralized most of the leak, reducing the damage on the rest of the PCB.
It's time to clear the corroded components, starting from the RTC circuitry south of the battery.
I used a $30 electric vacuum pump iron on the back of the board to suck most of the solder from the pins.
Then I pulled gently from the front while heating the area with a heat gun.
Most solder would melt easily, but pins attached to GND or heavily corroded would need more heat.
Except for the Ricoh RTC, the components I pulled are cheap to replace and can be cut in place to minimize damage to the precious #Amiga 3000 board.
I went to Microcenter and bought full assortments of resistors and capacitors, each for $9.99:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/618896/inland-1-4-watt-1-resistors-610-pack
I had already ordered some DIP sockets and ICs at Mouser, but I forgot the common 14-pin sockets, which are on their way.
@codewiz can you socket the RTC on an Amiga 3000 to turn it into a clock port? On my Amiga 1200, the clockport it can be used as a port to do some incredibly cool things, almost like a mini zorro bus. I have a music/mp3 playback card attached to my clockport to let my Amiga basically have a soundcard.
@GabeMoralesVR The A3000 RTC circuitry has a 4-bit data bus and 16 addressable registers. The CPU can directly read/write any of them, but there are no interrupts and no DMA.
The official PCB schematics are here:
https://www.amigawiki.org/doku.php?id=en:service:schematics
I've been using KiCad to view the gerbers, but the schematic diagrams seem to have some mistakes so I don't trust them.